The Hainanese started S'pore's kopitiam culture & created fusion food

You can thank them if you love eating.

#SG200 | July 10, 2019, 01:33 AM

#SG200 is not a celebration. It's a commemoration. What's the difference? Maybe this and other articles might help.


The Hainanese community makes up less than 7 percent of the Chinese population in Singapore.

But even though they are a relatively small group, they have created their own niche, especially in food.

Here are five reasons why it is cool to be Hainanese.

1. They're the original Kopi kings

If you are one of those who require kopi (real Nanyang coffee, by the way) to properly function as a human being, then you need to thank the Hainanese for the kind of kopitiams (coffee shops) and coffees that you love, and are nostalgic for today.

Kopi Thank the Hainanese for kopi. Source.

"They started the Hainanese kopitiam trade just after the Japanese Occupation (1942 to 1945), when rental rates were affordable, which began their reign on kopitiam culture in Singapore, before the hipsters came along.

In those days, most of the coffee shops were run by Hainanese people. Why? They had a very, very good 'kongsi' (clan association). This club would help members to improve their trade, expand their business. And that was a very, very good thing."

- Low Cheng Gin, Oral history interview on Chinese Dialect Groups for the National Archives.

As pioneers of the kopitiam trade, the Hainanese are generally acknowledged as people who brew the best coffee in Southeast Asia.

Don't believe it? Check out Ya Kun or Killiney Coffee because their owners are Hainanese.

2. They cook better than your grandma

Hainanese immigrants were among the last Chinese communities to arrive in Singapore, after the Teochews, Hokkiens, and Cantonese.

Unable to break into the businesses dominated by the other dialect groups, the Hainanese took up jobs as servants (runner boys) and chefs for the British colonial masters.

Servants for a colonial household. Source. Servants for a colonial household. Source.

Over time, they managed to hone their skills and reputations as purveyors of good taste (literally) and cooking.

From Hainanese chicken rice to Hainanese-inspired Western dishes (think Hainanese pork chops), there's really no denying that Hainanese-created food is awesome.

Just take a look at these.

chicken rice Hainanese Chicken Rice. Source.

Hainanese Pork Chops. Source. Hainanese Pork Chops. Source.

Kaya Toast. Source. Kaya Toast. Source.

Hainanese Curry Rice. Source. Hainanese Curry Rice. Source.

3. A Hainanese invented booze for the ladies

The Singapore Sling was created by Hainanese bartender, Ngiam Tong Boon, at Raffles Hotel in 1915.

The iconic cocktail was designed to be an alcoholic drink for ladies disguised as a juice-based drink.

It enabled ladies to drink alcohol in a public place at a time when such an act was socially unacceptable.

Sneaky? Sure. Ingenious? Definitely.

Singapore Sling. Source. Singapore Sling. Source.

4. Speaking of Raffles Hotel and the area around it...

The area around Bras Basah was a Hainanese enclave.

Hints of the old Hainanese locale in the form of the Hainan Clan Association can still be found in the area today.

"The whole of Middle Road was regarded as Hainan District. When you referred to Hainan Kongsi (clan association), well that meant Middle Road. So that area was considered Hainan clan."

- Low Cheng Gin, Oral history interview on Chinese Dialect Groups for the National Archives.

Fun fact: The Hainanese used to refer to Middle Road as "Hainan First Street", Purvis Street as "Hainan Second Street", and Seah Street as "Hainan Third Street".

"The Hainanese who lived in the Middle Road are opened coffee shops, provision shops, even postal services. They also worked on ships, worked as servants or chefs for the English."

- Lim Ming Joon, Oral history interview on Chinese Dialect Groups for the National Archives

If you zip round to Bugis Junction mall today, you'll find a pedestrianised street which is the reincarnation of old Hainan: Hylam Street.

Today it is an air-conditioned, cleaned up shell of its former self -- a gritty street just a stone's throw away from the infamous old Bugis red-light district.

5. They take care of one another

As with every other dialect group, the Hainanese value family and clan relationships.

They are always looking out for one another.

"Go to a chicken rice seller and speak to him in Hainanese. He'll offer you more meat for a lesser price. That's how bonded we are."

- Han Tan Juan, Head of Cultural and Education, Singapore Hainan Hwee Kuan in an Oct. 29, 2009 AsiaOne article.

In the past, Hainanese employers would help their fellow clansmen by employing them for culinary jobs.

To improve the skills of its community members, the Hainanese clan association also offered night classes to help improve their skills, which led to better employment prospects.

The Hainanese may be a relatively small group among the other communities in Singapore, but they sure have talent.

That's something to think about the next time you're savouring that kaya toast.

Top photo of a Hainanese kopitiam adapted from here

#SG200 is not a celebration. It's a commemoration. What's the difference? Click the logo. Maybe these articles might help.