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Chan Hon Meng, 58, the first Singapore hawker to be awarded a Michelin star in 2016 -- only to lose it after five years in 2021 -- has come out to address the loss of that accolade.
In an interview with The Peak, Chan admitted that the loss of the star was disappointing, saying it was “regretful” that Hawker Chan lost its star in 2021.
Star not as important as customers though
The founder of the soya sauce chicken rice stall that became a chain said, without going into detail to diagnose what could have led to the star being lost.
He said: “Having retained the star for five years, it is challenging to hold on to the star for so long. Nothing lasts forever – especially when it comes to food, when it is determined by so many factors like the ingredients and manpower.”
But he also appeared level-headed enough to recognise that the Michelin star is not what determines the quality of his fare, but rather it is those who vote with their wallets.
He, nonetheless, remained hopeful.
He added in his interview with the magazine: “I hope that the hawker stall receives Bib Gourmand recognition — of course, getting back the star would be better. But, if that doesn’t happen, we will continue to work hard for customers, who are the best judge of our food.”
His stall was formerly known as Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle before the Michelin star award.
Still working at stall daily for last 2 years
The piece on Chan is also filled with eye-opening details about Hawker Chan in the run-up to the release of 2022's Michelin guide.
Readers might be inclined to feel it could be a curtain-raiser for Chan, who could very well win his star back this year.
Regardless, it was mentioned that Chan has been working daily at his original hawker stall at Chinatown Complex Food Centre over the past two years.
He starts preparing for the day at 9am, and will continue in the stall to chop the soya sauce chickens when business starts at 10am.
He told The Peak in Mandarin: “I like the satisfaction of being at my stall — I get to meet my customers and check the quality of the food. I have to eat my chicken rice every day.”
He also regularly visits the other Hawker Chan outlets as it allows him to talk to workers and solve issues together.
Using frozen chickens for now
The Peak also mentioned that Hawker Chan is using frozen chicken for now as substitute, given that Malaysia has imposed a ban on poultry.
As frozen chickens are smaller, it is only big enough to get six servings.
With fresh chicken, he could get eight portions.
The Hawker Chan hawker stall alone sells about 90 chickens daily now, it was reported.
At the moment, Chan estimated that tourists make up 30 percent of his customers, and local diners have been showing up in droves despite losing a Michelin star.
Chan said: “Having received a Michelin star for my hawker stall is a once-in-a-lifetime honour and hopefully that has played a part in putting Singapore on the global culinary map.”
Future of Hawker Chan: Still expanding
Gaining and losing a star, as well as a spirit-breaking pandemic, has not stopped Hawker Chan's global expansion plans.
Despite the lack of travel, Chan has been communicating remotely over calls with those running the business overseas.
Soya sauce chicken restaurants are still in the works and popping up in Dubai and South Korea soon, having already expanded to eight countries, including Thailand, Australia, and Kazakhstan.
Background on the soya sauce chicken maestro
Chan's Hong Kong-style soya sauce chicken rice and noodle business, which also serves other meats, has been around for the last 35 years.
His Chinatown Complex Food Centre stall has been operating since 2009.
In 2016, the stall received one Michelin star.
He went back to work at the hawker stall the next day after receiving his star.
In 2018, Chan partnered homegrown food and beverage company Hersing Culinary to franchise his business and go international.
In 2021, the hawker stall lost its Michelin star.
The Smith Street outlet of the Hawker Chan eatery chain managed to retain its Bib Gourmand recognition.
Background on the upcoming 2022 Michelin Guide
The results of the 2022 Singapore edition of the Michelin Guide will be announced soon.
The results of the Bib Gourmand, which lists restaurants offering “good quality, good value cooking”, will be unveiled on July 5.
The starred restaurant list will be announced in a ceremony and gala dinner at Marina Bay Sands on July 12.
Top photos via Hawker Chan & Michelin Guide