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If you enjoy making Thai food, chances are you would have heard of Thai Supermarket -- a one-stop shop for all things Thai -- that used to operate at Golden Mile Complex.
Having been in Golden Mile for close to four decades, the supermarket's trajectory was closely linked to that of the building.
It even became synoymous with Golden Mile itself, which was colloquially known as Little Thailand.
Image by Joshua Lee.
Its longevity can be attributed to the shrewd business sense of its owner, 59-year-old Loh Yuen Seng.
The story of Thai Supermarket actually started before it officially opened in Golden Mile Complex in 1987.
Loh used to work as a itinerant tailor's assistant, travelling to various construction sites across Singapore to ply his wares.
The 1980s was a time when Singapore welcomed Thai construction workers and they made up the bulk of his customers.
From them, he picked up the Thai language and some regional dialects, learning over time that the Thai workers would congregate at Golden Mile Complex in their free time.
During Singapore's construction boom, in the 1980s, Thai migrant workers would travel down by bus to Singapore via the Malaysian peninsula, they would be dropped off at Golden Mile Complex.
"We didn't use to have budget airlines in the past," said Loh. "The workers had to take an express bus all the way to Singapore, here at Golden Mile."
In an era before the convenience of mobile communications, Golden Mile Complex became the de-facto place for workers to meet and catch up.
And so, when the workers suggested that Loh set up his tailoring business at Golden Mile Complex to serve his clientele better, he did so in 1985.
Loh's tailoring shop which was set up in Golden Mile Complex in 1985. Image courtesy of the Loh family.
In Loh's memory, the mall wasn't exactly bustling back then ("There was just one Thai eatery here."), but still, he saw a business opportunity: Serving the needs of Thai workers in Singapore.
So when a free unit opened up in Golden Mile Complex in 1987, Loh jumped at the opportunity to open Thai Supermarket.
At the beginning, Thai Supermarket catered to many Thai migrant workers. Image courtesy of the Loh family.
Over the years, Loh roped in his four brothers to expand the range of services for Thai migrant workers.
Aside from a supermarket, the Lohs set up a Thai mini cinema, a remittance service, an overseas postal service, and more (they even had a Thai restaurant at one point in time which eventually closed down), buoyed by the tremendous business opportunities present.
"When the Thai workers visited Golden Mile, they really felt like they were back home," said Loh.
The Thai mini cinema. That's Loh in the photo on the left. Photos courtesy of the Loh family.
The mail and parcel service. Image courtesy of the Loh family.
At one point, the Lohs even sold Thai music cassettes. Image courtesy of the Loh family.
At the start, Thai Supermarket offered a small range of products: beer, beef, canned food and rice, which were the few staples that the Thai workers typically went for (whenever the Thai workers had their payday, the supermarket could sell up to 1,000kg of beef, weighing as much as one whole cow).
But gradually, it started to offer more products like fresh Thai fruits and vegetables, Thai milk tea, and others. For the workers, Thai Supermarket was a "home away from home".
Even though today, the supermarket sees much fewer Thai workers, there are some very loyal customers who have stayed, including one who has been shopping with them for over 30 years.
The fresh produce at Thai Supermarket. Image by Joshua Lee.
"This particular customer still remembers me selling pants at Bedok," said Loh. "Whenever we meet, I will always converse with him in his native northeast Thai dialect."
"This is like their home, a place to meet their friends. Everyone speaks Thai here, they feel a sense of familiarity away from Thailand," said Wan Ting.
Over time, as the supermarket became increasingly successful (expanding from 1,000 square feet to 10,000 square feet), more Thai-centric businesses began to open up in Golden Mile Complex, earning the mall the name "Little Thailand".
A shot of Thai Supermarket from 1994. Courtesy of the Loh family.
The supermarket's clientele changed over the years as the number of Thai migrant workers began to dwindle. And with the mookata (Thai barbecue) boom that happened a few years back, Golden Mile became a hotspot for Singaporeans looking for a dash of the Thai experience. More and more locals started patronising the businesses at Golden Mile Complex, including Thai Supermarket.
Why? Maybe it has to do with our love for Thai culture. "Many Singaporeans go to Bangkok," said Wan Ting, "so I think the whole Thai culture is very familiar to them."
In the later years, about 70 per cent of Thai Supermarket's customers were locals who were looking to buy authentic Thai products. The most popular were tom yam pastes, Thai snacks, and Thai milk tea. The native Thais preferred the fresh vegetables from Thailand and fish sauce.
The supermarket in 2023. Loh said that the range of Thai products offered at his supermarket was the most comprehensive in Singapore. Image by Joshua Lee.
Running Thai Supermarket has been a fulfilling journey for Loh who has come to understand Thai culture more intimately in the process. Today, he speaks three different Thai dialects, including one from the northeast region of Thailand.
"Many of my early customers used to work in Singapore as labourers, in order to raise their families back home in Thailand. Actually, the Thais really contributed a lot to our country," said Loh, who remains very proud that he was able to let them experience the feeling of home in his little way.
Loh also applauds the Thais for being an honest and reliable group of people.
"I really feel a sense of accomplishment that I was able to open [Thai Supermarket] and have it become so well-received."
Golden Mile Complex in the past. Image courtesy of the Loh family.
Today, with the sale of Golden Mile Complex, that particular chapter of Thai Supermarket has come to an end, but it is not the end of the story.
"Of course we will be sentimental (about leaving Golden Mile Complex)," said Loh.
"Just like how the government had to relocate people who were living in kampongs back in the day, it feels just like that."
The supermarket is relocating to Aperia which is not too far away from its present location. Similarly, a few of Loh's neighbours are relocating to places that are in the vicinity.
Thai Supermarket is relocating to Aperia in May. Credit: Joshua Lee.
It marks a new era for the owners of Thai Supermarket whose mission remains the same: to bring a taste of Thailand here in Singapore. Loh harbours a dream that even though the businesses of Golden Mile Complex have been spread out, the spirit of Little Thailand will endure.
"Maybe next time, Little Thailand won't be confined to one building. It could be one entire district, like Little India. Maybe that might happen in three to four years time."
We hope so too. In the meantime, Thai Supermarket is slated to reopen at Aperia in May 2023.
Until then, as they say in Thai, เจอกันใหม่ (see you again!).
Top image courtesy of the Loh family.