April 25, 2023, 11:29 AM
Whenever you think of Kampong Gelam, what comes to mind?
Is it the eclectic vibes of Haji Lane? Or perhaps the imposing grandeur of Sultan Mosque?
These are popular locations but Kampong Gelam is so much more than that.
Once the seat of Malay royalty, the conservation area boasts an array of lesser-known spots which you should check out if you want the complete Kampong Gelam experience.
1. Start your excursion with a fiery kick
If you’re looking for a meal, top-notch nasi padang places like Sabar Menanti and Rumah Makan Minang will definitely hit the spot.
But if you’re looking for something a little less traditional, check out Chix Hot Chicken, opened by our OG Singapore Idol Taufik Batisah and his gym buddy.
Situated along the lesser-known Jalan Pisang (which means Banana Street), the eatery is a stone’s throw away from Sultan Mosque.
On their website, the eatery boasts that they serve the “hottest chick’n in town” and boy are they not kidding.
As someone who can handle my chilli padi without breaking out in sweat, The Pepperjack left me gasping for air (I, rather foolishly, scoffed at the “Mild” spice level and went for “Hot” instead).
Featuring a succulent boneless chicken thigh topped with pepper jack cheese, pickles, and yuzu sauce, The Pepperjack was — to me — very much like a McSpicy, except that the heat built up more gradually and lingered far longer like a guest who had overstayed their welcome.
Not unlike the aftermath of a Ma La Xiang Guo meal.
But aside from that, the chicken thigh was expertly fried so that it was crispy on the outside and juicy when I sank my teeth into it.
The eatery’s most popular burger is the Soul Slider.
It comes with a boneless chicken thigh but instead of cheese, it features a zesty slaw, pink sauce, and pickles.
Both are wonderful choices, but if you’re heading down to try them, take my word for it: Start with “Mild”.
And here’s more good news: The eatery has a lunchtime promotion where you can get a burger, fries, and a drink for only S$9.90.
2. Browse one-of-a-kind batik
There’s more to batik than the clothes you typically see on our ministers and Indonesian businessmen.
Head over to the Sultan Arts Village at Sultan Gate to browse the assortment of batik materials and one-of-a-kind clothes at Kiah’s Gallery.
Owners Yati and Raza are extremely passionate about their batik which are sourced from Indonesia.
They tailor all sorts of clothes from shirts to dresses here and according to Raza, their products are extremely popular, especially among tourists in search of Southeast Asian inspired designs.
The pieces made by Kiah’s Gallery are also special because they meld the tradition of batik with influences from other cultures to produce creations like batik kimonos and cheongsams.
Spend some time talking to them and just like me, you’ll probably be won over by Raza’s enthusiasm and passion as he goes over the different types of collar designs or even the merits of machine-printed vs hand-dyed batik.
The pieces here are one-of-a-kind so you can be sure that if you bring home a piece, it’ll be uniquely yours.
3. Have a break with artisanal bread and coffee
Founded in 2017, Mother Dough Bakery blossomed from a one-woman pop-up project to a quaint little cafe that now offers a wide range of artisanal bakes.
The bakery is situated along Jalan Kledek, which is named after the sweet potato.
Fun fact: Jalan Kledek along with Jalan Pinang (areca nut), Pisang (banana), and Klapa (coconut) are streets named after the fruits of trees that were commonly planted around Malay houses and palaces in the old days.
Depending on the day you visit, you will find a tantalising menu that changes each month.
You can go for Mother Dough’s bestseller of all time - its almond croissant or something a little more adventurous like a shrimp and salsa galette and roti boyan-inspired hand pie served with hot sauce.
The cafe boasts a fuss-free and quiet atmosphere that is not overly-crowded - perfect for those who just need a bit of peace to relax and enjoy a moment with some artisanal bread.
Cinnamon Brioche.
4. Infuse your senses with artisanal fragrances
Kampong Gelam is home to many shops that sell exotic fragrances like those derived from sandalwood and frankincense.
But if you’re looking for something a little more contemporary, check out Sifr Aromatics.
Founded in 2010, this niche perfume store has been passed down for three generations.
The third-gen owner Johari Kazura lived and breathed perfume growing up, and is super passionate about blending the traditional craft of perfumery with a modern approach to scents.
And trust me when I say that it is an experience that is vastly different from a run-of-the-mill fragrance store in a mall.
On the day that I visited, Johari was busy engaging a couple, patiently explaining different scents and helping them to find one that suited their taste.
Stepping into the shop was like entering a scented bubble which encased me from the hustle and bustle of Kampong Gelam.
Aside from the lingering fragrance in the shop, the artful lighting and soft music came together to create a memorable experience.
I took my time to browse the different offerings, from gorgeous bottles of scents to passionately-crafted candles to luxurious body balms that were perfumed with Green Pear and Apple or White Tea.
If you’re interested in the science and art of perfumery, Sifr Aromatics also holds workshops and demonstrations.
5. Treat yourself to a fusion dinner
Now, if you’ve been following this list to a T, you’ll probably be a little famished at this point.
Take a stroll back to Jalan Pisang for some hearty Asian Fusion cuisine at Okra by SWG.
Their most popular dish is the Shellout which has fresh shellfish, crabs, prawns, mussels, clams, lobsters, scallops, and gong gong cooked in a variety of sauces like Triple Sambal, Lemak Chilli Padi, or Cajun Spice. It serves anywhere from five to eight pax.
Since I was visiting alone, I ordered the Coconut Chilli Pasta which was sufficiently piquant and delightfully different from a typical plate of pasta.
6. Cap off your visit with a bird’s eye view of Kampong Gelam
Bookend your visit to Kampong Gelam by going to the top floor of the Textile Centre which houses many old-school textile businesses that relocated to the complex as part of urban renewal in the 1970s.
There, you can take in this breathtaking view of Kampong Gelam (bonus if you can capture it at sunset) and admire how history and modernity exist side-by-side in this conservation district.
There’s so much more to explore in Kampong Gelam – from an extensive range of traditional textiles and fabrics, to a modern crafters and makers bazaar, and many other heritage eateries.
It’s really impossible to finish everything in one day.
Balancing tradition and relevance
As my visit has shown me, having traditional trades like batik tailoring and perfumery exist side-by-side with trendier businesses like an artisan bakery and fried chicken joint makes Kampong Gelam a very unique and interesting place to be at.
To keep this spirit of Kampong Gelam alive, the Kampong Gelam Alliance (KGA) – a voluntary alliance comprising residents, cultural institutions, business organisations, property owners and hotels – has come up with a Place Plan with the support of the Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA), to chart the future of the Kampong Gelam Historic Area.
Think of the Place Plan as a business plan with a heart – it's not just about commerce, but also considers the needs and aspirations of the community. The plan aims to curate a mix of new and traditional trades, create public spaces, improve connectivity as well as celebrate the area’s history, heritage, culture and the arts.
Through engagement with businesses, community groups and the general public, KGA and URA have found that there is strong support for initiatives to showcase the precinct’s rich history and culture. I hear there are some exciting ideas brewing and more will be shared when the final Place Plan is unveiled later this year, so keep your eyes peeled!
All images by Joshua Lee.
Thanks to this sponsored article by the Urban Redevelopment Authority and Kampong Gelam Alliance, this writer got to spend a work day touring Kampong Gelam.
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