POV: S'porean couple, both 32, quit their jobs to bike around the world, including Tibet, Iran & Afghanistan
Adventure of a lifetime.
In January 2024, Singaporeans Nerine Mak and Haren Khatau, both 32, quit their jobs to bike around the world.
Since then, they've travelled through countries like Iran, Scotland, Russia, and Tibet. Last December, Mak became the first Singaporean woman to ride to Afghanistan.
Amid the stunning scenery and colourful cultures that they experience every day, there's one thing that stands out however: the people.
We spoke to the couple to find out about more about their adventures off-road.
As told to Ilyda Chua
How did the idea for this trip come about?
Nerine: We had been together for about two and a half years before we started this trip.
[Before this] we travelled a lot together as well, to like Australia, South Africa, India.
Haren: We both came up with this idea together.
My idea was to ride from Singapore to India on a dirt bike, and Nerine's idea was to do van life around Europe.
It was Nerine's idea to combine these two ideas. She said, "Two countries [further] from India is Europe, right?" And I was like, yeah, that's true.
So we started planning the whole thing together.
Montenegro. Photo from allterrainoverlanders/Instagram
When did you guys quit your jobs to travel the world?
Nerine: I was leading a corporate life as a legal counsel in TikTok and ByteDance.
While I was excited to pursue my career, I also wanted to challenge myself beyond the confines of work.
[At first] my parents had concerns about how it might impact my career and my ability to return to the legal profession. It took them over a year to come to terms with it.
But in a twist, my father (now 70 years old) bought a motorcycle in early 2024, and went for his own bike trip through Asia with my mother!
Nerine's parents, who picked up motorcycling in their late 60s. Photo from boomers.on.bikes/Instagram
Haren: I used to work in my family company, which operates a chain of boutique safari resorts.
When Covid struck, I was locked down in Singapore and that's where I found a job at Mutt Motorcycles and I met Nerine too.
I was inspired by her aspiration to travel long term, and her ideas lined up with mine.
So the plan for this trip was born.
Afghanistan. Photo from allterrainoverlanders/Instagram
What are the logistics of such a long trip?
Nerine: This trip is funded mainly by our savings and passive income.
We keep a close eye on our budget — for example, for every 50km we travel, we rack up S$6 in bike expenses, like tires, petrol, and maintenance.
[When planning the trip] we look out for natural attractions. I'll do some research, highlight them, list them on Google Maps.
I'll share this with Haren, and he'll plan the most exciting route to go there.
Kazakhstan. Photo from allterrainoverlanders/Instagram
Haren: I use a GPS app that I've got on my phone. I'm very familiar with it because I've spent a lot of time driving around in deserts and jungles.
So even if there is no cell phone reception, I make use of these tools to help stay on track.
Nerine: Going off road, we're not really bound by itineraries and timelines. We are very fluid with our plans.
So our days can be action-packed, but whenever we want, we can just stay in bed and just chill in the hotel for the whole day.
We both carry our own gear and belongings. This includes motorcycle gear, four-season clothing, basic toiletries, camera equipment, paperwork and visas, and electronic devices.
I also carry a cooking set and gas canister so we can cook light meals.
Armenia. Photo from allterrainoverlanders/Instagram
When did you pick up biking?
Nerine: I started riding in around 2015. It was supposed to be a cheap mode of transport, you know, for when I go to Bali or Phuket with friends.
But in 2019 when I was between jobs, I decided on a whim to get a bike in Ho Chi Minh City, and ride it all the way to the north of Vietnam over five weeks.
I didn't tell my parents. They thought I was taking a sleeper bus from town to town.
Until I had an accident. I had a very bad gash near my eyebrow, it needed stitches and I also injured my ligament. (laughs)
Post-accident in Vietnam. Photo from sportsfreako/Instagram
Luckily it healed within five days, and I decided to carry on with the journey. My parents were really upset, but I was very determined.
That was the turning point. I came back to Singapore and told myself I needed to learn some basic motorcycle servicing and maintenance skills, and when Covid hit I decided I better learn now.
That's how I met Haren.
Haren: Yeah, I used to be an off road (biking) instructor. I did a bit of coaching and instructing. Nerine was one of my first students.
Kyrgyzstan. Photo from allterrainoverlanders/Instagram
What are some of the more memorable experiences you've had?
Haren: Mongolia was one.
We were just riding on grass in the middle of nowhere. At one point, Nerine's bike got stuck in a river.
I was in my underwear, trying to help Nerine get her bike unstuck from the river. (laughs) For 20 minutes, just shoving the bike left and right, trying to release it from the mud.
Then these three trucks pulled up behind us. All we said was hello.
They never even asked, they just immediately got out of the car, rolled up their pants, walked into the river, and pulled the bike out for us.
River crossing in Mongolia. Photo from allterrainoverlanders/Instagram
Nerine: One thing I noticed is, within the city, people are very hooked up on their phones.
If they face any trouble, you can just make a phone call and get help.
Whereas if you're in a really remote place, you're so far away from the city that if you need any help, you only have your neighbour to get help from.
So I think that's why the human-to-human relationship there is much more valued, and people are just so warm and friendly to each other.
With village kids in Kyrgyzstan. Photo from allterrainoverlanders/Instagram
What are your plans after your trip?
Nerine: The end goal is to return back to Singapore. But we don't have an idea of when exactly.
Haren: We'll definitely eventually have to come back.
But what we can do is, when we come back, we can inspire people to do their own trips. Let them also experience this culture.
Then at least we have a little reminder that even though we're all busy with our lives, with this rat race, we should also extend a little warmth and humanity to our neighbours.
Photo from allterrainoverlanders/Instagram
Top image from allterrainoverlanders/Instagram
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