It’s durian season, and you know what that means.
Time to annoy your less-inclined friends with the sweet, sweet smell of durian.
Speaking of durians, the Esplanade itself might share similar qualities with the fruit it's said to look like — some probably think of it as an acquired taste.
Recent developments have led me to eat my words, especially after I learnt that the mall beside the arts centre does have something for everyone, regardless of your preferred price point.
The mall might stand beside looming durian shells, but its unique taste of local flavours and brands make sure it isn’t overshadowed.
I took a chance to check it out one day, and found homegrown gems like these.
Garden of Desire
The first thought that hits me when I enter the Garden of Desire is: “I’m in the woods.”
No joke, the furniture in the store looked like it would be right at home on a magical forest floor.
This jewellery store on the second floor is helmed by a friendly face, Agnes Lim, who founded the brand with her husband, Ly Pisith.
Photo by Julia Yee
Lim tells me that Garden of Desire is a place for personal discovery.
Photo by Garey Gan
“Every piece is handmade and has its own place and its own story. It’s for my customers to discover their piece,” Lim says.
One of her personal favourites is the “Root Necklace”.
Photo by Julia Yee
She explains that the design is about remembering where you came from and who you are, no matter where life takes you.
Having built the business from scratch in Cambodia 16 years ago, before taking the leap and expanding their venture into Singapore, Lim knows something about holding strong in times of change.
Lim speaks fondly of her husband, the brand’s chief designer, who puts heart and soul into each piece that makes its way onto the shelves.
In fact, nestled among the displays are snippets of the man’s calloused hands hard at work.
Image by Julia Yee
She shares these stories and more, until I forget I have to make a move. But our talk definitely has me looking at the pieces in a new light.
And even if you ain’t that deep, at least you’ll like the cool jewellery.
Gif by Julia Yee
Red House Seafood
I have a bit of a fangirl moment when I first try the chilli crab here.
Jeffrey Chin, the 43-year-old manager, listens to me ramble on about it.
But his grin tells me he gets the gist — the crab here is darn good.
Photo by Julia Yee
This seafood diner is housed on the first level of the mall, with outdoor seating overlooking the DBS Foundation Outdoor Theatre at Esplanade's waterfront.
Now a third-generation family business, the restaurant is home to a range of authentic Singapore Nanyang-style crab dishes, with chef favourites being the chilli crab, black pepper crab, and white pepper crab.
Gif by Garey Gan
Chilli crab aside, the menu offers a spread of seafood delicacies with roots in Southern China and Southeast Asia.
Chin, a jovial and comforting presence in the restaurant, tells me his favourite part of the job is seeing his staff happy and customers full.
I myself am quite taken by the casual yet upscale ambience of the place.
I can imagine myself bringing friends my age (note: in their 20s) here to eat.
But I can also imagine bringing my grandma.
Photo by Julia Yee
Till the end of August, Red House Seafood is also offering a S$98 Chilli Crab Package (usually priced around S$118.80 and up).
Foreword Coffee
Back in 2017, two students from the National University of Singapore (NUS) set out to use coffee as a vehicle for change and shift the public perception of persons with disabilities.
Fast forward seven years, and a humble open-concept cafe sits on the third floor of Esplanade Mall — it brings the total number of Foreword Coffee outlets in operation today to eight.
I’m greeted by just some tables and a wavy counter — but there’s more to it than meets the eye.
Photo by Julia Yee
You can step up to the counter to order a drink, but expect to be asked to do it silently instead.
This is because the backbone of the cafe, its workers, are persons with disabilities such as deafness.
Regular patrons know to pick up a small board and write down their orders, which will then be signed to one another by the staff.
Gif by Garey Gan
No words are exchanged, but smiles certainly are.
The barista making my order is a little shy with the camera on him, but soon slips into the groove of his work, navigating the bar with surety.
Photo by Julia Yee
Even though there are no fancy bartender tricks, his steady hand is more than enough to get the job done.
Tumbleweed Studios
Caffeine fix secured, I head down to the jamming studio Tumbleweed Studio.
You don’t just stumble across it — you have to know what you’re looking for.
Behind a modest set of doors lies a musician’s haven, with winding corridors leading to four separate rehearsal rooms available for per-hour rentals.
Photo by Julia Yee
The studio was founded by musical powerhouses Josh Wei and Leonard Soosay.
Soosay is the original founder of Snakeweed Studios, a place that became the lifeblood of Singaporean music. He later brought on his mentee Wei to be a managing partner.
I get to meet Wei, a renowned record producer and songwriter who’s worked on K-pop tracks for idols like CL and Stray Kids.
He ushers me into a homey studio outfitted with mics, instruments, and lots of power points.
Each room is also outfitted with two heavy doors (don’t worry, Wei assures me, it’s to keep the noise — not me — in).
One of the musicians there demonstrates playing the electric piano.
To be honest the keyboard wasn’t plugged in, so all I saw was his fingers moving silently across the keys. But he still looked pretty cool.
Then he gets to the drums, which I definitely hear.
Photo by Julia Yee
Wei says that while the studio is often visited by some well-known artistes (whom I cannot name due to possible legal reasons), the heart of the business is catering to the “everyday musician”.
I also see how “Tumbleweed” can be a testament to the state of Singapore’s budding music industry.
The environment may not be the best to thrive in, and being an artist in a world run by STEM might seem like a disadvantage.
But the dreamers are still here, still flowing with the music.
Gif by Julia Yee
Makansutra Gluttons Bay
My last stop is a little ways apart from the rest.
Makansutra was founded in 1997, and has grown to be a bedrock in Singapore’s hawker culture.
Lined with stores selling local delicacies like satay and ice kachang, this humble spot is a refuge from the area’s towering office buildings.
Where else except Singapore can you enjoy cheap, good food?
Photo by Julia Yee
I look at the lanterns and fairy lights strewn along the roofs, and I can only imagine how the scene looks when night falls.
Photo courtesy of Esplanade
I got a chance to speak with the owners of Syifa’ Satay.
“Syifa” means “healing” in Arabic, which is the sort of therapeutic experience co-owners Sheila and Farida want their customers to have.
Farida (left) and Sheila (right). Photos by Julia Yee
The satay Farida serves me is tender and charred in just the right places, with homemade sauce on the side.
Photo by Julia Yee
Farida and Sheila took over the stall’s ownership from their predecessor Sam, who founded the business in 2010.
They’ve since made some changes to the business, but are always careful to keep its spirit of “food that speaks to the soul”.
“You can give the same satay stick to someone else to cook it, but it will taste different. It’s the hand that makes the magic,” she says.
I don’t generally believe in magic, but after tasting this satay, I’m inclined to do so just this once.
Taste of durian
We’ve come to the end of my virtual tour for you, but that’s not all.
These walls house many other local gems I’ve yet to explore. Like Labyrinth, a One Michelin Starred restaurant that serves up dishes with local produce and Singapore-inspired flavours.
If you prefer something heartier, there’s also Straits Chinese Nonya Restaurant, known to be one of the oldest Nonya restaurants in Singapore with a three-generation legacy.
Craving for fusion cuisine? The Malayan Council brings together Malay-Asian and Western cuisine with traditional recipes and a modern touch.
Not so much a foodie? The mall still has much to offer.
For the bouldering junkie reading this, Project Send is suitable for both pros and casual climbers.
But if you prefer something less “intense”, pop on over to Analog Vault and check out their used and new vinyl records that’s suitable for literally any mood.
So next time you find yourself with some extra time to kill, take a chance on the shops in Esplanade Mall.
I promise, they’ll be as rich and unforgettable as the innards of a durian.
And, like when eating a durian, even if you find it isn’t exactly your kind of taste, at least you can say you’ve tried it.
This sponsored article made the writer crave some durian.
Top images by Mothership and Darron Soh
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